Honeywell Thermostat Wait Indicator
I have a Honeywell TH8320U1008 thermostat and the word 'Wait' has been displaying on the screen since yesterday. The heat is coming on and the house is heating, but the heat is constantly cycling on/off for a few minutes at a time each and it's, obviously, taking a long time for the house to heat.
- POST a QUESTION or READ FAQs about line voltage thermostats
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Heating or cooling room thermostat diagnosis: how to troubleshoot a heating or cooling room thermostat that is not working at all or is not working properly.
Here we suggest step by step procedures in diagnosing HVAC thermostat problems such as a thermostat that is not working at all or one that shows a blank thermostat display or a thermostat that does not turn heat on or off at the right temperatures.
Page top photo: a basic room thermostat showing the red and white wires being switched by the thermostat and a place where it's easy to check for voltage .
We also provide a MASTER INDEX to this topic, or you can try the page top or bottom SEARCH BOX as a quick way to find information you need.
Heating & Cooling Control Thermostat Troubleshooting Guide
If your heat won't turn on at all, the problem may not be at the thermostat at all. Start at HEAT WON'T TURN ON. But if you think the problem is at the room thermostat for either cooling or heating, you can also start right here in the steps we give just below.
Question: Wall thermostat is not working - what do I do?
My wall-mounted thermostat is not working. - Ed 8/14/12
Reply: Things to check if a thermostat is just not working
Ed you're not giving us much to go on so my reply is a bit limited. Here are the steps in figuring out what's wrong with a heating or cooling room thermostat:
- Check that the thermostat has electrial power -
see THERMOSTAT POWER & VOLTAGE. If your thermostat is a programmable unit that uses a digital display, if the display is blank you already know that the thermostat is either disconnected or has lost power. - If the heating or cooling system has no electrical power check for a blown thermostat or HVAC equipment fuse or tripped circuit breaker; keep in mind that in addition to the fuse or circuit breaker powering the equipment, there may be fuses or switches inside the boiler or furnace itself.
- Next check that power is turned ON to the heating or cooling equipment - power off will often also turn off the thermostat since it's usually powered by a transformer connected to the same circuit as the indoor air handler, blower assembly, or furnace or boiler.
See ELECTRICAL POWER SWITCH FOR HEAT where we explain these electrical switches on heating systems in more detail
If the heating system has electrical power but the thermostat is dead check for voltage at the low voltage transformer that powers the thermostat -
see LOW VOLTAGE TRANSFORMER TEST - separate article.
If your thermostat is a model that relies on its own internal batteries all the time, Check for a dead thermostat battery -
see THERMOSTAT BACKUP BATTERIES - for temporary or full time operation - Check the continuity of thermostat wiring and that the wiring is correctly installed for your thermostat and the device it controls -
see THERMOSTAT WIRE CONNECTIONS - how-to, separate article. Also check for a short between the thermostat wires - If the thermostat and the equipment both have electrial power, identify the two wires that will be connected when the thermostat switch makes or closes and remove them from the thermostat entirely - just jump them together; if the equipment runs then the thermostat was the trouble; if it does not, the problem is elsewhere.
At THERMOSTAT WIRING TIPS & COLOR CODES we discuss how to identify the different wires in the thermostat and how people jump wires to identify their function - a useful but sometimes risky procedure. - If the thermostat won't turn ON or won't turn on equipment see THERMOSTAT WON'T TURN ON
- If the thermostat won't turn OFF or won't turn off equipment see THERMOSTAT WON'T TURN OFF
- If you are having trouble turning a fan on or off using thermostat switches see
- If your heating or cooling system will run but room temperature is too hot or too cold, see HEAT ANTICIPATOR Adjustment and see THERMOSTAT CALIBRATION
Question: what doers 'TT' mean in thermostat and HVAC discussions?
I was reading your help forums on thermostat trouble shooting, and needed to know what you are referring to when you say TT? (The Thermostat?) (I have no power at my thermostat)
Can you also tell me the wire colors that I would need to check,or exactly how to bypass the thermostat at the TT?
Is the voltage that I should be seeing 110,or 220 at the thermostat?
Thank You!!! Great Site!!!
Reply:
Scott, thanks for the question - it's an example of how people too familiar with a topic can speak in shorthand that is gobbledygook to everyone else.
TT is simply shorthand for 'thermostat' in most discussions; for example in wiring up an aquastat the instructions might at times refer to the TT or 'thermostat' terminals.
Most room thermostats operate at 24VDC except line thermostats such as those used to switch some electric heat baseboards.
Useful Heating or Cooling Troubleshooting Articles
Following a list of articles useful in troubleshooting thermostats we include a series of reader questions & answers about troubleshooting room thermostat problems.
Because some controls are used in common on hot water heat, hot air heat, and steam boilers, readers should see these other articles:
Air conditioners & heat pumps: see A/C - HEAT PUMP CONTROLS & SWITCHES
For hot water or steam heat see BOILER CONTROLS & SWITCHES, and also
see BOILER COMPONENTS & PARTS for a detailed list of heating boiler controls, other heating system components, parts such as circulator pumps & draft regulators.
If your building uses warm air heat, see FURNACE CONTROLS & SWITCHES
If your building uses steam heat see STEAM HEATING SYSTEMS
. Also see HEAT WON'T TURN OFF - Stop Unwanted Heat.
Water heater thermostats are discussed separately at AQUASTAT CONTROL FUNCTIONS and
at ELECTRIC WATER HEATER THERMOSTATS.
Readers needing to find and fix un-wanted air leaks, heat losses, or other energy wasters should
see HEAT LOSS DETECTION TOOLS.
Readers should see ENERGY SAVINGS RETROFIT CASE STUDY and also
see HEAT LOSS DETECTION TOOLS
and INSULATION INSPECTION & IMPROVEMENT for energy saving retrofit detailed guides.
Also see GAS PIPING, VALVES, CONTROLS for more details on how to inspect and test LP and natural gas piping, controls, valves, and tanks.
Room Thermostat Error Code Meanings
Reader Question: How to Translate the error codes on digital thermostats
My Trane digistat has a red button lit and has error code 90? what does that mean? - Tony 7/7/2011
Reply:
Tony error codes are thermostat or heating/cooling device and model dependent. The meaning of HVAC unit error codes are usually printed on a sticker inside the unit cover or control or device cover. If yours has lost that information look for the installation and service manual for the equipment.
If that fails you'll need to call the manufacturer with your model number, serial number, and ask for the manual. That's because there is not a universal standard for digital thermostat error codes - the codes displayed and just what they mean vary among different heating & cooling devices. Some example thermostat and digistat error codes are listed below:
- Trane XL19i A/C Digistat error code 89 or 90 or 91 - check for a loose wire or broken connection in the thermostat wiring;
- Trane 900AC43UA error code 126 - condenser unit lost power in mid-cooling cycle. Turn off all power and wait at least 5 minutes, we recommend 15 minutes, then turn power back on. This may enable the refrigerant pressures in the system to equalize and allow the compressor motor an easier start-up.
- Trane 900AC43UA error code 53 - check for blocked air filter or dirty condensing coil
- Trane Furnace LED Flashing Error Indicators:
- Slow regular flashing: normal condition, the thermostat is not calling for heat (modern units)
- Fast regular flashing: normal condition, the thermostat is calling for heat (modern units)
- Flashing (older units): System has locked out on safety - unable to start and run safely
- On solid: bad control board
- Off solid: no power to the unit
- 2 flashes then pause: System has locked out on safety - unable to start and run safely
- 3 flashes, then pause: vent pressure switch senses an error
- 4 flashes: the high temperature limit device is not working or high temperature has been reached - safety off
- 5 flashes: burner flame sensed when it should be off
- 6 flashes: reversed hot / neutral electrical power wiring or defective electrical ground connection
- 7 flashes: gas solenoid valve error or circuit error
- 8 flashes: burner flame too low
- 9 flashes: igniter circuit failure & wire marked from terminal 'N' to 24VAC voltage is low - check for bad ground
- Digistat 3 water heater Error Code 90 - the unit is not heating the water or the fan is finding airflow resistance that causes it to over-correct. Check for insufficient makeup air, an improperly installed or blocked heater exhaust vent (dangerous), a blocked fan motor or vent, or insufficient BTUs or fuel supply.
- Drayton Digistat+2 Code E1 or E2 - sensor fault, system remains off, call for service [UK Product]
Our image above shows a Trane ComfortLink™ II digital thermostat that uses downloadable software that can be transferred into the device using an SD card or similar memory device. This is one of at least ten models offered by the company. Contact Trane Corporation at PO Box 9010, Tyler TX 75711, or via their website, www.trane.com or by calling Trane's Thermostat Customer Assistance Helpline at 1-877-880-3381 - don't expect to find detailed thermostat installation guides or error codes for Trane equipment online - the company does not provide that information.
Common Heating or Cooling Thermostat Problems, Questions, Answers
Question: A/C fan turns on but A/C won't turn off? Is it the thermostat
My fan will turn on and off when i set mode on thermostat, but ac will not turn off. Is it safe to say I need a new stat? - Roll 8/22/11
Reply:
Roll, the thermostat is a simple 'on-off' switch as far as your A/C equipment is concerned. I suspect the problem is elsewhere, in a control relay or switch in the equipment itself.
Reader follow-up:
fixed. cleaned contactor, now it does not lock on or off, works as designed. case closed.
Reply:
Glad a simple cleaning step at the contactor fixed the thermostatic control. Just watch out: cleaning of electrical contact points needs to be as gentle and smooth as possible. I used to literally file off burned contactor points, but I learned that the contact point surfaces are plated and that once I too-aggressively filed them down they pitted and burned rather quickly. If the problem recurs, replace the entire thermostat or the contactor relay itself.
Reader follow-up:
Dan: thanks for the advice. I used a small flat head with caution and then used a compressed can of dust off for a final cleaning. This is a 1991 Fedders that purrs like a kitten. I clean every year myself. It feeds to a 1991 Goodman Janitrol that has new fan motor and igniter. Runs great. Key is cleaning annually including electric board. I replace filters regularly.
Reply:
Roll that sounds like a perfect wall thermostat clean-out job, and good advice for others whose thermostats seem to be acting strangely. Indeed on older thermostats I've found amazing clots of dust inside.
Question: My inside air handler blower fan won't stop running no matter what
My inside fan will not shut off even when the thermostat is in the off position and continually blows hot air. The outside unit is not coming on in either on or off positions. I've had to turn the breaker off on both sides. Would this be a problem with the thermostat, the inside fan circuit or the outside unit? - RG 9/6/11
Reply:
RG
- check that no one has pulled the 'fan on' switch on the fan limit switch - this only applies if your blower fan is on a combination heating furnace and air conditioning system.
- if that's not your case and the thermostat is not in FAN ON position, and if you are not calling for heating or cooling, I'd try disconnecting the thermostat entirely - it's basically an on-off switch; if it's removed the wires will not be connected; if the fan still runs there's a short in the wiring or a bad control board in the air handler. Most likely; or something else we haven't thought of.
Take a look at HEAT WON'T TURN OFF.
Question: We changed our A/C unit and Thermostat - now it Stopped Working
Hello, Mr. Friedman. I seem to be having a strange problem. We just had our A/C unit and thermostat changed in February, and it was working wonderfully up until today. We just got back from vacation yesterday and had left the thermostat at 80 degrees. We came home, and I switched it from 80 to 75 and then from 75 to 70. And it was working fine up until about three hours ago (it is now 7:15 pm).
The thermostat registers the inside temperature, but there is no side number indicating what temperature I wish to have it at. (Ex.: It's 85 degrees, and I would set it so that it would be 75 degrees, but that number isn't showing up). The fan will run if I switch it to 'on', but not on auto. I have switched the batteries, called Honeywell, flipped all the switches I can find. I'm assuming that this would be the cause of the thermostat, as opposed to the actual unit itself?
We have been having problems for a while now, with strange things. (Last month, the carpet directly across from the unit was sopping wet, and took a week to get up! But there was no leakage directly at the AC unit.) It's been kind of a Murphy's Law joke. I'm not sure what I hope to hear, but any kind of advice would be gladly received.
Thank you.
Jillian 7/9/11
Reply:
I'm not sure about your model but many thermostats show the current room temperature and do not show the set temperature except while you are pressing the set buttons to change the temp up or down. If you have set the temperature well below the current room temp and the A/C won't start, then you will want to take a look at the air conditioning diagnosis suggestions found in the article linked to at the ARTICLE INDEX the bottom of this article and titled LOST COOLING CAPACITY
About that wet carpeting, if your air conditioning condensate drain system is clogged or leaking that could be the problem; watch out for hidden mold or even insect damage or rot if such a leak is left un repaired.
Question: We changed our thermostat settings and now the A/C unit won't come back on
We had our thermostat set at 79 and it read 79. My wife had some friends over and they were hot so we turned it down to 75. The reading never changed from 79. I decided to turn it off and then on again to see if it would help. When I turned the switch back on to 'cool' it would not turn back on. We usually hear a click and then it starts going. Nothing now. What do you suggest? - Mike 7/11/11
Reply:
Mike on at least some air conditioning systems if you switch the compressor component off and then back on again quickly the compressor can have trouble re-starting against the head pressure in the system. Usually if you leave the system switched off for 30 minutes or longer you'll get past that problem, but it might be worth looking out for a hard-starting compressor.
Question: My new digital thermostat worked for just 6 hours then stopped
I replaced my thermostat with a digital one and it worked great for like six hours and then before it reached the desired temperature it just shut down. Now the ac nor the fan will come on. The fan will not even come on in manual mode. I flipped the breaker and nothing has worked. What is up with this A/C? Maybe I wired wrong but the unit was working perfectly for a hours. - Mike in Lubbock
Reply:
Check for a wiring error, broken or loose connection, lost power.
Question: A/C system cools for just an hour, suspect thermostat or control board trouble
ok joe this is what i got. Ac system set to 75 get home flipped it on started to cool 1 hour later no more air. Flipped fan switch to on instead of auto on thermo, nothing. pulled the cover off fan unit and saw contactors go on to start fan motor than flipped off. Decided it must be a bad start /run capacitor, put a new one in and the same thing.
I then pulled out the magnetic coil /contactor /control board and jumped the contactor that was for the fan motor. The motor started right up and ran fine. Either the thermostat went bad and is not sending the proper signal to the control board or the control board is bad. Got any good tests to figure what is bad? - Ray 7/19/11
Reply:
Hey Ray, try this:
If you suspect a bad thermostat you can just temporarily eliminate it from the circuit: a thermostat is basically an on-off low-voltage switch. If you connect the TT wires to the cooling circuit it's the same as the thermostat calling for cooling.
Or just replace the thermostat - they're not costly.
If the TT is not the problem then from what you described there could be a bad contactor relay or control board itself - that is, if the relay is not damaged then it could be the control board circuit not calling for cooling.
Reader follow-up:
Well I got to your e mail a few hours too late . I replaced the contactor/relay to no avail, after scratching my head for about 20 minutes I decided to find your advice. I found an old thermo and viola!! the system came right on and cooled the house quickly. Hey i just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to help all of us save hundreds if not thousands of dollars with your expert advice. There are millions of people out there that are willing to tackle problems with a little guidance keep up the good work we all appreciate it even if you don't hear back from us. Ray D
Reply:
Ray D - so glad you got things working, and that our website was helpful. We are dedicated to making our information as accurate, complete, useful, and unbiased as possible: we very much welcome critique, questions, or content suggestions for our web articles. And working together always gives us better information than struggling on alone.
Often a good general approach to trying DIY repairs is to try the easy inexpensive tests and fixes first. Replacing a questionable thermostat is a good example of that approach.
Question: our heat won't stay on
Thermostat has 2 readings, actual temp inside the home and the temp we set that we want inside the home, the heat comes on for 1 to 2 minutes then turns off, and will not warm up the home,we have to turn it completely off then on again for it to start again for another few minutes, what's wrong with the thermostat or is it that? - Sam
Reply:
Sam, take a look at the room temperature and compare it to the 'set' temperature of the thermostat. If the room temp is different from the set temperature then the thermostat is calling for heat (in your case). If the heater wont' keep running and the thermostat keeps calling for heat, the problem is most likely not the thermostat but a start or operating problem at the heater. It may be going off on safety, then automatically resetting - not a cycle that you should continue as it could be unsafe.
Question: My thermostat only works on a call for heat; on call for cooling a fuse blows
when I call for heat the thermostat works, when I call for ac t blows the fuse what is going on - George 4/21/12
Reply:
George,
Calling for cooling turns on the outdoor compressor-condenser unit that is not user during heat calls (presuming it's not a heat pump system). I am guessing your compressor is not starting and is tipping the breaker or blowing the fuse.
Question: How do we balance air temperatures in a triangular shaped room?
hi, i am at work in a triangular room, the shape is /_, so at the bottom we have the regular wall, and the other 2 sides are formed of long big windows. at the top of the triangle it is always colder than at the bottom.. the people in one side are always colder than the others.
We have 5 thermostats; the air vents are on the margins of the 2 glass walls; in the middle of the room we have another air vent; now we were told to keep all of them on Heat or Cold, and at the same temp.
Nevertheless the difference between temp in the room is quite big; for ex we set the temp at 73, and on heat, but the top of the triangle has temp 62 and the bottom 79.. Quite huge difference. could you help in advising what could be done or if it is ok nonetheless to set 2 thermostats on cold in the hotter part of the room and the other ones on heat in the cooler part?
or do we need to do other changes in the room? - Maria
Reply:
Maria balancing temperature in a large but irregularly-shaped open space can be difficult, but the solution usually lies in not only where the conditioned air supply registers are located but also the location of the air returns. Also whenever anyone changes 'just their local area' - like moving a suspended ceiling tile or changing their supply register outlet, they upset the balance of the system. You need an experienced HVAC designer/installer to take a look at the problems you describe.
Question: After installing a new thermostat the A/C worked fine, then started making noise
2 days ago I replaced my old honeywell digital thermostat with a new honeywell digital thermostat because the old one just stopped working - there would be nothing at all on the display and nothing would appear when I pressed any of the buttons.
It was not a battery backed up type. After replacing the thermostat - the AC seemed to be working quite well and I was so pleased with myself. I left to run some errands and when I returned home I could hear the outside unit clicking loudly as if it were trying to come on but then shorting out and then trying again repeatedly. It kept doing this until I got inside and turned the thermostat to 'off'.
Several hours later I tried again by turning thermostat to 'cool' and the ac came on and blew cold air fabulously for about 10 minutes then the outside unit started making that noise again (It's a terrible noise - you know something's wrong). The AC keeps blowing cold, even when the outside unit is making that noise until I turn it to the off position again. I didn't have the problem with the old thermostat and this only started happening when I replaced the thermostat. Did I buy the wrong Thermostat? What could be causing this?
Reply:
I don't have enough information to make a good guess on this one, but it sounds as if you need a service tech to take a look at the compressor and outdoor fan. Clicking noises could be a bad relay, or even a loose fan blade or a stick that fell into the fan unit.
Question: thermostat won't turn off fan: our attic blower fan won't turn off
Our t-stat will not turn off the blower fan in the attic. The condenser unit .. - Anon 6/8/12
Our condenser unit stopped running so it's not cooling. I tried to turn the blower fan off from our simple non-programmer digital thermostat but it wouldn't turn off. I had to go up to the attic to turn the switch off. - Anon, June 2012
Reply:
Anon,
Check that the 'FAN ON' switch is not set on your thermostat. Try setting that switch to AUTO or FAN OFF.
Then if that doesn't correct the problem, see Fan won't stop: What to do if the Air Conditioning or Heating System Blower Fan Runs Continuously and Won't Shut Off?
or go to our blower fan diagnostic home page at FAN, AIR HANDLER BLOWER UNIT.
Question: thermostat won't turn off air conditioner
My Honeywell round thermostat is not shutting off my A/C. I have the position set to auto and the A/C works but won't shut the A/C off. Also, it appears not to be calibrated any longer in that I need to adjust the temperature to a much higher temp than actually desired. Is it a 'dirty' stat? Help! Roy K, 6/19/12
My outside unit wont shut off unless I turn it off with the breaker. A friend told me it was the thermostat so I replaced it. While in Auto/Cooling the house cools and the fan shuts off, but the outside unit continues to run. Maybe a relay? - Tim 7/16/2012
AC will not turn off when thermostat is at set temperature it run all the time - Scott 8/24/12
Reply:
Roy,
this should be pretty easy to check since thermostat wiring is not complicated. I'm not sure of the age and type of your round wall thermostat - take a look at the photos in the article above - but if it's a bimetallic spring type and dust has clogged the unit it should be possible to simply blow or vacuum debris out of the thermostat. Be careful not to bend anything.
A second diagnostic step: simply disconnect the thermostat wires from their terminals right at the thermostat. That disconnection is equivalent to the thermostat turning 'OFF' the call for cooling.
If the cooling system continues to run then the problem is not the thermostat itself.
Other problems that could keep the A/C running include
- a short anywhere in the thermostat wiring that crosses the two wires together (this is equal to a thermostat 'ON' call for A/C)
- a problem with the control relay or circuit board in your A/C air handler or compressor/condenser unit
Tim,
If the thermostat is not calling for heat, and PROVIDED that the thermostat wires are not accidentally shorted together somewhere (worth an ohmmeter check), then the AC equipment should not turn on. An indoor air handler blower may keep running if the fan is in ON or Manual rather than AUTO, but the outside unit would shut off. IF the outside unit does not shut off I suspect a relay or control board problem there.
Scott:
- If the thermostat is not properly located it may not properly sense room temperature; for example locating a heating thermostat on a poorly insulated exterior wall or locating an air conditioner thermostat in hot sun can cause problems
- in addition to the advice I give above, check for a dust-clogged thermostat that is not sensing room temperature properly
- a bad control board, relay, or shorted wire could be the culprit
Question: Air Conditioner sometimes won't turn on
BASICS: Apartment A/C unit with heat pump. Inside: Blower, motor, coils, clean drip pan. Outside: One-year-old compressor.
PROBLEM: A/C sometimes doesn't cycle on. Thermostat temperature climbed to 100F during the heat wave. Moving thermostat arm to 60F still doesn't cause A/C to turn on:
The trick is to turn the OFF-COOL-HEAT switch from COOL to OFF to COOL; then, the A/C comes on within a minute and resumes normal cycling (until the next random failure).
NOTE: I can hear fluid moving in the coils (that normal 'tingly' sound) when the A/C SHOULD come on.
Any ideas? Apartment maintenance guys' HVAC knowledge seems lacking. Thanks!
- Sleepless in Atlanta, 7/5/12
P.S. I just had them install a brand-new clock thermostat, to replace the old-fashioned manual one. Made no difference in the problem.
Reply:
x
Question: Inside Blower Fan Runs in AUTO but not in ON - fan shuts off, coil ices up
why would the inside fan motor quit when in the auto position but yet run fine in the on position? this happens after working fine for 3 cycles in the auto position and then I have to switch to the on position because the fan shuts off and ices up the condenser. I have stat set @ 75 (stat is new) - Woody 7/21/12
Reply:
Woody you've taken a good diagnostic step; we know the problem is in a control, control board, ran relay, or switch, or thermostat wiring, not the fan motor itself.
Let's get clear which fan we're discussing and where icing is occurring. If the indoor air handler fan won't run I'd expect the evaporator coil in the indoor air handler to ice-up. The condenser coil is in the outdoor compressor/condenser unit. You wouldn't expect to see icing there.
Question: Round Honeywell Digital Thermostat - exhaust purge fan keeps cycling
My mother's home has a round Honeywell digital thermostat (just like the one pictured for a previous question). When her a/c is running, the furnace exhaust purge fan comes on and cycles repeatedly (it will run for a short while, then shut off, then start right back up before it has a chance to completely stop). She was told it was a defective thermostat. Does that sound right? - DaveM 7/31/12
Reply:
Dave M
Sounds to me as if the cooling system thermostat wiring is not hooked up correctly - in HEAT mode it would be normal for an exhaust purge fan to start when the TT called for heat. But not when it calls for cooling. It could be mis-wired or it could be that the thermostat model is not one that supports (and has wires run for ) both heating and cooling.
Question: Apartment heat is off for the summer and I don't want the Air Conditioning On but I'm Freezing Cold
The heat is turned OFF for the summer in my apartment building, and I do not want the air conditioning on. The Honeywell on the wall (rectangle), shows 72, but my portable thermostat shows 68 and I'm freezing. What should I do besides using a portable space heater? - Ellen 8/6/12
Reply:
Ellen, in the links listed at the ARTICLE INDEX the bottom of this article under THERMOSTATS see the article titled COOL OFF HEAT, Thermostat Switch
you should be able to turn your thermostat to OFF
Or set the SET temperature on the thermostat to a temperature higher than the room temperature to avoid turning on the A/C
Question: my A/C system won't turn on in response to the thermostat
My a/c contactor is not receiving the 'call'. If I push in the contactor button, it kicks on and everything seems to work. But, the thermostat won't kick it on. I have a brand new capacitor and contactor. If there was a problem with power getting to the unit, wouldn't it NOT come on if I pushed in the button on the contactor?? Any ideas? I looked for a switch on the blower motor, but none found. Help! - Art 8/30/12
Reply:
Try
- removing the thermostat from the equation by jumping the two on-wires (see our tables of thermostat wire identification) that would be connected if the thermostat calls for heat or cooling - whichever you are testing
- if that solves the problem then the issue is in the thermostat, else I suspect a contactor or control board problem
Question: Heat/AC system cycles on and off too often - short cycling boiler or furnace
New, Heat/AC Honeywell Round Thermostat. (not digital)
Cycles unit off and on too often. Seems to be trying to hold set temperature within 1 degree.
Shouldn't it allow temp 3 degree change change before unit comes on? - Anon - 10/2/12
(Dec 17, 2012) sean said:
The thermostat has been in the same place for 33years, and I replaced the thermostat and it still keeps cycling for heat but they are short cycles less than 3mins. I diconnected the thermostat wires from the board and the furnace still wants to run is it the board? how does a fan limit switch malfunctioning cause the burner to run I could see the fan running abnormally but not making the burner to run also. again the burner turns on and runs approx 2-3mins then the fan kicks on, directly the burner turns off, then the fan turns off after 1-2 mins then the burner comes on again, and the cycle continues and the temp in my home continues to rise and rise
Reply:
Yep; check for a bad heat anticipator, dust clogged thermostat, improper thermostat location in hot sun or too cold space, or in an area where air from the supply register blows right onto the thermostat
Sean,
Good detective work! Indeed if you disconnect the thermostat AT THE BOILER OR FURNACE and the system continues to run then there is a control problem at the heater, not a thermostat problem. But if you disconnected the thermostat AT THE THERMOSTAT then it's possible that the thermostat wires are shorted together somewhere enroute, thus 'calling' for heat.
Question: rapid on-off cycling of outdoor compressor/condenser fan
I just bought a new house and I noticed that the fan on the outside unit is cycling on and off in 1-2 minute cycles with the thermostat set to off. This doesn't seem normal to me. I know that there was a freon servicing valve that was stuck and let all the freon escape. This was fixed prior to us closing and i'm not sure if that has any relation to what is going on now. I'll probably have to call in for warrantee work unless you know why it's doing what it's doing. It seems like the wiring might be incorrectly installed, what do you think? - Joe 10/31/12
Reply:
Joe I agree that rapid on-off equipment cycling is not proper but typically I suspect a bad control or sensor, not the wiring itself.
Question: Our digital thermostat keeps magically switching from heat to cool
Is this a bad thermostat or is it an indication of something else? I have a basic digital thermostat and the electric heat pump system is 5 years old. The outside temperature has ranged anywhere from 14 to 50 degrees outside. I have the temperature set at 68 on heat and can wake up and the house is in the low 60's. The thermostat will read that it is on cool. I run the settings on the thermostat back to the heating cycle and the house warms back up only to change back to cool maybe 8-24 hours later again. This has been going on for a while. - Janice 12/30/12
Reply:
Janice, be sure that the manual switch on the thermostat is set to HEAT mode;
Question: Gemtech programmable thermostat troubles
I have a Gemtech GTP211D, a programmable thermostat. I set the temperature based on time pf day and day of the week. However, the thermostat program resets itself and loses all the settings. In addition, the heat and air will not be running according to my programmed temperature. Please advise. 12/30/12 - Eunice 12/31/12
Reply:
Eunice,
check for:
- a dead backup battery in the room thermostat
- loose or bad low voltage wires between the thermostat and the heating equipment or low voltage transformer
Question: can I replace my Honeywell round wall analog thermostat with a new programmable one on a steam heating system?
I have a gas-fired steam heat furnace (Burnham - approx 10 years old) with an analogue Honeywell round-dial type thermostat. Is it possible to replace the thermostat with a digital type with programmable heat settings or does the age and type of furnace preclude such luxury? - Anon 2/7/13
Reply:
Replacing an old round analog room thermostat with a programmable unit should be no problem at all - the thermostat is basically just an on-off switch.
The compatibility issues we've come across more often occur if a thermostat had to control a 3-wire Flair-type zone valve - which your steam system won't have.
..
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- THERMOSTATS, HEATING / COOLING
- THERMOSTAT SETTING INSTRUCTIONS - Separate article - How to Set the Thermostat
- THERMOSTAT OPERATION - how digital thermostats & their displays work
- THERMOSTAT TROUBLESHOOTING - Separate article: What to check if a thermostat is just not working
- THERMOSTAT ERROR CODES - How to Translate the error codes on digital thermostats
- THERMOSTAT WIRE CONNECTIONS - how to wire up all types and brands of heating & cooling thermostats
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Technical Reviewers & References
- [1] Proliphix Corporate Headquarters, 3 LAN Drive Suite #100, Westford, MA 01886 Phone: +1.978.692.3375 Toll Free (U.S.): 866-IP-LIVING (866.475.4846) Fax: +1.978.692.3378 - Sales: sales@proliphix.com Marketing: marketing@proliphix.com Customer support: support@proliphix.com http://www.proliphix.com/ - quoting from the company's website:
All Proliphix Network Thermostats come with our free Uniphy Remote Management Service. This unique offering lets you monitor and control your HVAC systems by simply pointing your Browser to our secure Proliphix Web Site. Enjoy the convenience of programming a thermostat from any location, using a simple graphical interface. No computer equipment or software is required. And since Proliphix takes care of the network configuration for you, you’ll be up and running in no time. We’ll even proactively monitor your thermostats and send you an immediate email or SMS message when an HVAC problem is detected. - [2] 'The Nest Learning Thermostat', Nest Thermostat, 900 Hansen Way Palo Alto, CA 94304, Tel: 855-4MY-NEST, Email: info@nest.com, website http://www.nest.com/, retrieved 1/24/2013.
- [3] Honeywell Controls, the company wants you to use their contact form at this web page: http://www51.honeywell.com/honeywell/contact-support/contact-us.html
Honeywell Consumer Products, 39 Old Ridgebury Road Danbury, CT 06810-5110 - (203) 830-7800
World Headquarters, Honeywell International Inc., 101 Columbia Road, Morristown, NJ 07962, Phone: (973) 455-2000, Fax: (973) 455-4807 1-800-328-5111 - [4] Honeywell Corporation, Honeywell T451A, T651A, T694A,B,D,F Light Duty Line Voltage Thermostats, [installation, troubleshooting manual], 1992, Honeywell Consumer Products, 39 Old Ridgebury Road Danbury, CT 06810-5110 - (203) 830-7800 copy on file as Honeywell_Line_Voltage_T651A.pdf
World Headquarters, Honeywell International Inc., 101 Columbia Road, Morristown, NJ 07962, Phone: (973) 455-2000, Fax: (973) 455-4807 1-800-328-5111 copy on file as Honeywell_Line_Voltage_T651A.pdf
'T451, T651, T694 Thermostats provide on-off control of valves, fans, motors, contactors, electric heat elements, duct furnaces and fan coil units in heating/cooling systems. Switching sub-bases provide manual control of heating, cooling and fan.' - [5] Honeywell Corporation, 'Honeywell Thermostats', website http://www.honeywell-thermostat.com/line-voltage.html retrieved 3/16/13
- [6] Honeywell EConnect™ Wireless Thermostat Kit TL9160AR System Installation Guide, retrieved 3/15/13, copy on file as Honeywell_EConnect69-2474EFS.pdf
- [7] Trane, Ingersoll Rasnd Residential Solutions, Trane PO Box 9010, Tyler TX 75711, Website www.trane.com
- [8-10 pending]
- [11] White Rodgers Thermostats and HVAC controls,
Homeowner information: http://www.emersonclimate.com/en-US/brands/white_rodgers/Pages/wr-homeowner-info.aspx
Contractor information: http://www.emersonclimate.com/en-US/brands/white_rodgers/wr_contractor_info/Pages/white-rodgers-contractor-info.aspx
White Rodgers Product Catalog (don't misspell the company's name as White Rogers Thermostats) -
http://www.emersonclimate.com/Documents/thermostats.pdf - Thermostat Catalog - [12] Domestic Central Heating Wiring Systems and Controls, 2d Ed., Raymond Ward, Newnes, ISBN-10: 0750664363, ISBN-13: 978-0750664363, Quoting from Amazon.com:
This unique A-Z guide to central heating wiring systems provides a comprehensive reference manual for hundreds of items of heating and control equipment, making it an indispensable handbook for electricians and installers across the country. The book provides comprehensive coverage of wiring and technical specifications, and now includes increased coverage of combination boilers, recently developed control features and SEDBUK (Seasonal Efficiency of Domestic Boilers in the UK) boilers ratings, where known.
In addition to providing concise details of nearly 500 different boilers fuelled by electric, gas, oil and solid fuel, and over 400 programmers and time switches, this invaluable resource also features numerous easy-to-understand wiring diagrams with notes on all definitive systems. Brief component descriptions are provided, along with updated contact and website details for most major manufacturers. - [13] 'Automatic Oil Burner Controls - Thermostats', Domestic and Commercial Oil Burners, 3rd Ed., Charles H. Burkhardt, McGraw Hill, 1969 (and later editions), ASIN B0000EG4Y8
- [14] Hunter Fan 2500 Frisco Ave. Memphis, TN 38114 888-830-1326 www.hunterfan.com
- [15] Trane TCONT800 Series Touch Screen Programmable Comfort Control Ownes Guide, American Standard, Inc., Troup Highway, Tyler TX 75711, January 2005, Telephone: Customer Service: 1-877-3381, website: www.trane.com
- [16] Boilers, Boiler Conversions, James E. Brumbaugh, ISBN 0-672-23389-4 (v. 1) Volume II, Oil, Gas, and Coal Burners, Controls, Ducts, Piping, Valves, James E. Brumbaugh, ISBN 0-672-23390-7 (v. 2) Volume III, Radiant Heating, Water Heaters, Ventilation, Air Conditioning, Heat Pumps, Air Cleaners, James E. Brumbaugh, ISBN 0-672-23383-5 (v. 3) or ISBN 0-672-23380-0 (set) Special Sales Director, Macmillan Publishing Co., 866 Third Ave., New York, NY 10022. Macmillan Publishing Co., NY
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A Honeywell thermostat not cooling Down can happen for lots of reasons. For example, poor thermostat placement, to a broken cooling system. Here, we discuss some of these reasons. We then offer troubleshooting methods and fixes to solve these cooling issues. First, we examine what problems happen in the thermostat itself. Then we talk about the furnace / HVAC issues that can also cause not enough cooling.
Possible Reasons for the Honeywell Thermostat not Cooling Down the House
Thermostat Frozen
Problem
Now and then with smart thermostats, a snap of static electricity near the thermostat, can freeze the touch screen. Also, a power surge in the home’s electrical system can do the same. Then too, the data shown onscreen no longer updates. Further, the cooling system may stay off. No matter how far from set temperature the room temperature is, the HVAC system may not come on at all.
Solutions
When Honeywell thermostat not cooling down happens, reboot the thermostat. Turn off power to the thermostat for ten to twenty seconds. Then turn it back on. This is easy with many smart models because they can detach from furnace power. Simply unsnap them from their wall plates. Then, wait a few seconds, and finally re-attach them to reboot. Or, if your thermostat does not come off of the wall easily, cycle it at the breaker box. You can cycle main power to the whole furnace system by switching off and on the breakers that feed it. Doing this power cycles the thermostat as well, and thus, reboots it.
Thermostat Lost Power
Problem
The screen on smart thermostats looks blank or dark. No readings or status messages appear. Further, the condenser does not run. Plus, you hear no humming at the HVAC unit. There may be no indication of power loss on today’s non programmable thermostat models, except that their backlights don’t light up. But the effect is still the same. That is, that the HVAC system cools not at all, no matter what the thermostat setting.
Fixes
Honeywell thermostats get power from the furnace / HVAC system usually. So, check that all parts of that system have power. Often there’s one circuit breaker that feeds the furnace itself, and another that delivers power to the outside unit. So check that none of these has tripped out.
Check that the heat works. The heating and cooling subsystems often get power from separate circuit breakers. So, the thermostat could get its power from either one, although usually not both. A power loss in either system could cause Honeywell thermostat not cooling down the house. By checking that the heat works, you’ve ruled out this cause of thermostat power loss. In this way, a faulty heating system can make the cooling system malfunction as well.
Also, check that the cooling works as you did with the heat above. Your thermostat may get power from the cooling subsystem (Rc wire). A downed cooling system may therefore, also take the thermostat down. If so, check for and if necessary, restore power to the cooling system to restore the thermostat to working order.
Thermostat Not Calibrated Correctly Might Cause Honeywell Thermostat Not Cooling Down the House
Problem
The current temperature reading on the thermostat may not show actual room temperature. Think about your cooling system. The thermostat reads high. That is, it reads 76 degrees when the actual room temperature is 72 degrees. Here again, the cooling system may be pumping out all the cool air it can. So, it cannot lower room temperature further. Thus, the thermostat never cools down your home as much as you’d like.
Fixes
Calibrate your thermostat on those models that support this. To do that, buy an accurate thermometer. Then, place it near the thermostat. Next, wait for a half hour for the readings to stabilize. Then, note the difference in reading between the thermometer and the thermostat reading. In the 72 degrees Vs. 76 degrees example above, the difference is four degrees. If the thermostat reads four degrees warmer than the thermometer, then adjust thermostat calibration four degrees in the negative. If the thermostat reads four degrees cooler, then adjust the reading four degrees in the positive.
Thermostat Incorrectly Wired
Problem
If the cooling problem happened when you installed a new thermostat, you may have wrongly wired it. Perhaps you’ve reversed the W and Y wires. This would run the heating stage though the thermostat is actually calling for air conditioning. Other symptoms may arise too. This depends on which wires and how many of them connect to the wrong thermostat terminals.
Fixes
Check for correct wiring at both ends of the thermostat cable. At the thermostat, attach all wires to the right terminals in the wall plate. Then, do the same at the furnace end. Get help from a professional HVAC repairman if you feel uncomfortable matching these wires up with the right terminals.
Thermostat Not Level May Cause Honeywell Thermostat Not Cooling Down your House
Problem
Poor leveling on older thermostats can affect how well it responds to room temperature changes. Those models relied on a bimetal spring to sense temperature. They attached a mercury switch to the end of that spring. Then, as room temperature rose and fell, the spring changed size. This tipped the mercury switch on or off to bring room temperature near the thermostat set temperature.
Proper leveling was needed for this tipping to occur as designed. Indeed, if tilted too far off of level, the cooling system might never cool at all. The mercury inside does not make or break the contacts as it should.
Fixes
Level your thermostat if it is not already level. If it’s not too far out of level, try loosening the screws that hold it to the wall. Then, tilt it toward level. Finally, while holding the thermostat in that position, tighten the screws again.
But if the thermostat is too far from level, drill new mounting holes. To do that, remove the screws and wires if they get in the way. Then reposition the thermostat over the new holes. Finally, drive the screws into those new holes. We suggest putting wall anchors into these holes for a stronger hold. Pyramid time trax ez software download.
If you still have a mercury thermostat, it may be time to replace it with a current model. Today’s thermostats have more accurate sensors and more features. Plus, these newer ones work well, no matter how far off of level you install them. They’ll cool the house in any position.
Honeywell Thermostat Not Showing Correct Temperature
Problem
Your living quarters may cool down to the temperature you desire. But, the thermostat does not show that temperature. This can happen you place the thermostat on an outside wall. Too much outside temperature affects the thermostat reading inside. Or, the thermostat might be on a wall shared with the HVAC / utility room. In this case, cooled air from the HVAC can also affect the thermostat. For these situations, someone installed your thermostat in a poor location.
Fixes
Always place thermostats on an inside wall. This wall should be far from cooling sources. So, move your thermostat to a better spot. If you must have it on an outside wall, be sure to well insulate that wall.
Broken Thermostat Wiring can Cause Honeywell Thermostat Not Cooling Down Your Home
Problem
The solid copper wires in the thermostat cable can break if flexed too often. Or, perhaps the installer stapled the cable with too much pressure or stapler misalignment, and nicked the cable.
This problem normally shows up during new thermostat testing. But sometimes, it does not surface for years. Plus, settling of wall studs can flex these wires that installers often fasten to them. So, after decades, this flexing can wear wire coverings, causing faulty HVAC cooling operation.
Fixes
Replace the cable between the thermostat and HVAC unit. Avoid tightly stapling the wire, and don’t fasten it more than necessary. Lay it loosely.
Thermostat Temperature Offset Too Large
Problem
Let’s say that you set the thermostat to 75 degrees. Plus, the HVAC system can cool the house to a low of 72 when running full tilt. Further, let’s say that you set your temperature offset to +5 degrees. In that case, your thermostat thinks that the room is five degrees warmer than it actually is. So, it may try to cool your house to 70 degrees, not 75 degrees. The room temperature here, never reaches the set temperature (75) because it cannot reach the actual temperature of 70 degrees. So, an extreme temperature offset can look like a Honeywell thermostat not cooling down issue. But it isn’t here.
Fixes
Adjust the offset temperature. This helps assure that your set temperature does not exceed your HVAC capacity. Avoid setting the temperature offset to more than a couple or three degrees.
Thermostat Temperature Set Too High or Too Low
Problem
Honeywell Thermostat Wait Indicator
You can set thermostats way lower than the HVAC system can deliver. During a hot spell for example, you might set the cool temperature to 74 degrees. But your air conditioning unit moves only enough BTUs to cool to 78 degrees when it’s so hot outside.
Fixes
Try setting the thermostat to a realistic temperature. A realistic temperature is one that your HVAC system can deliver based on current weather conditions. If that setting is not comfortable, then your HVAC may be to blame. So, check it for proper function as discussed elsewhere in this post. You could also add more cooling units around the house. Or, upgrade the central HVAC unit to a larger size.
HVAC Issues can Cause Honeywell Thermostat Not Cooling Down your House
Clogged HVAC Filters and Fan Blades
Problem
Dirty air filters can restrict airflow though the HVAC unit and around the home. Clogged filters reduce how much the system cools. How so? Dirty filters and fan blades move air less well. Plus, they make more noise, and also, again, reduce your HVAC’s cooling ability.
Fixes
Replace air conditioner filters monthly. Plus, hire a pro HVAC technician yearly, to check your system. He should clean out dust buildup inside. Also, have him remove blockages in the cooling air hander, inspect the control units for damage, and so on.
Dirty Heat Pump Coils can Trigger Honeywell Thermostat Not Cooling Down your House
Problem
Dirty heat pump coils, again, slow airflow through the condenser outside, and the evaporator unit inside. Thus, dirt can interfere with the system’s efficiency. Dirty coils lowers the BTUs per hour that a heat pump can pump. That could mean that the system cannot keep your quarters as cool as your thermostat setting calls for.
Fixes
These coils have closely spaced metal fins. Have a pro clean these with steam. Or, try vacuuming them with a household sweeper that has a hose and brush. Do not bend the fins though, as they’re delicate. Bending them too much can forever restrict cooling airflow and thus, reduce how well your HVAC system cools your house.
Evaporator Coils Frosted Up
Problem
On humid days, when an air conditioning unit runs most, frost buildup can occur. This happens either in the inside unit. So, why care? Because frost lowers airflow through these coils. Thus, this ice interferes with the necessary heat exchanging that allows good cooling. No matter where the frosting happens, the effect is the same; reduced cooling. Frost-up thus, can cause the Honeywell thermostat not cooling down problem. Frosting makes your HVAC unit work harder to provide the same amount of cooling. This means higher energy bills for less comfort.
Fixes
Turn your HVAC system off for a half hour to an hour. This allows the frost to melt away, restoring proper operation to the system.
Extreme Temps Outside Often Cause Honeywell Thermostat Not Cooling Down your House
Problem
It’s common for HVAC’s to fail to keep up when the weather outside is very warm. They might run constantly but still fail to keep up. Now there may be nothing wrong with the thermostat per se. And, there might be nothing the matter with the air conditioner either. The issue might be that your HVAC system is too small to overcome the entering heat from outside.
Fixes
Close all windows and drapes, especially during the day.
If you have a multi stage cooling system, check that both stages are working properly.
If your windows are old or are single-pane, try upgrading to at least double-pane. We prefer triple-pane, as these offer greater insulating. They keep the coolness inside better thus.
One Stage Not Working in Multistage Systems
Problem
You may be getting SOME cooling, but not enough to hold room temperature at the set value.
Fixes
If you see the Honeywell thermostat not cooling down, check that your compressors are working. Check all the stages in the cooling system, as some have more than one. For multi stage cooling, stage one should come on first. As soon as room temperature rises above the set point by half a degree or so, you should hear it start up. If it does not, find out why. Then, the second stage should kick in when the room temp hits two or three degrees above set temperature. Again, if it does not, this may be what’s causing your Honeywell thermostat not cooling down your house.
For heat pump systems, a faulty or badly wired changeover valve may also be the culprit. In this case, your HVAC system may deliver heat when the thermostat is really calling for cooling.
Too Little Insulation or Too Much Outside Air Getting In
Problem
If your house lacks enough insulation, this worsens the Honeywell thermostat not cooling down issue. Indeed, much coolness leaves through cracks around windows, walls, and doors. Thus, the HVAC works harder to bring the house to the set temperature. Indeed, there may be many BTUs leaking in in this way. So many, that the HVAC system cannot backfill. It cannot thus, maintain the set temperature. So, your thermostat never reaches that set cool temperature.
Fixes
Find the most leaky areas of your home. Do that by walking around inside the house, feeling for hot spots. Look for places where warm air comes in. Then, seal with the calking, hardening foams, and other materials. Be sure that the louvers on any exhaust fans you have, close completely when the fan is off.
Replace faulty windows and doors. Again, single pane windows are huge energy hogs. We suggest replacing these with at least double pane models.
Also, don’t forget about the basement. We’ve found that replacing our old single pane basement windows with glass block units helped a lot. These new windows took a big load off of our HVAC unit. Indeed, the set temperature grew much easier to maintain over a wide range of cooling values. Basement glass block windows, in our case indeed lessened our Honeywell thermostat not cooling down problem.
Improperly Sized or Worn Out HVAC / Furnace System is Another Reason for Honeywell Thermostat Not Cooling Down your Home
Problem
Sometimes, home builders cut corners to save money when figuring HVAC unit size. They want the cheapest unit they can get by with, one that might be too small thus, to control the cooling temperature well. So, on very hot days, you might see the Honeywell thermostat not cooling down problem show up.
Also, over time with heat pumps especially, their compressors lose efficiency. Why? Well, either because their valves are leaking. Or it occurs due to refrigerant leaking out through small holes in the piping.
Fixes
Have an HVAC tech check refrigerant pressure. She should also read the head and tail pressures while the compressor runs. Find the right values for all of these on a sticker somewhere inside the HVAC unit. Have her add refrigerant if these read below recommended values.
But if the head / tail pressure difference is too small, then you have major problems. This means that the change over valve is leaky, or compressor valves are inefficient.
The changeover valve might be cheap enough to replace. So too would the compressor. This repair may be the right thing to do as long as the system is less than fifteen to twenty years old. But if it is older, then replace the whole system.
Conclusion
As should be clear, the Honeywell thermostat not cooling down problem has many causes. Plus, most of them lie beyond the thermostat. A poorly insulated home, a furnace that’s too small, leaky windows and doors also contribute. All of these make the HVAC system work too hard to cool your home. In many homes there’s little coolness to spare due to poor HVAC sizing. Sadly, the fix for this often costs a lot. Why? Because it means replacing windows and doors, or adding more insulation. Or you may need to upgrade your air conditioning unit or add more of these devices.
But we hope that now, you know what might cause the Honeywell thermostat not cooling down your home issue. Knowing the causes often helps in choosing the right fixes. Even though the best fix may cost the most, at least now, you have the information in front of you. Good luck, and choose the fixes wisely.
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Suggested Reading
References
Revision History
- 2018-04-02: Originally published.